Vitalij and Sonja Kanarskij founded a new restaurant combining Eastern European flavors in the Limingantull district of Oulu. Sonja, who runs the kitchen, is a former singer from the Mariinsky Opera in Saint Petersburg.
The Eastern European dining scene in Oulu is expanding, as restaurant Caspian has opened in the former pizzeria premises in Limingantull.
The menu features traditional borscht soup, pelmeni dumplings with various fillings, lagman soup and dyshpara from the deeper east of Azerbaijan and Uzbekistan, Ukrainian varenyky, the legendary Chicken Kyiv, and Eastern European cabbage rolls.
The menu also includes tenderloin and pepper steak, more familiar to Finnish diners. For dessert, you can order a samovar of hot tea with crepes topped with roe or jam.
"The flavors we serve come from Eastern Europe and the former Soviet countries. Fortunately, that country no longer exists, but the food and food culture have survived," says Sonja Kanarskij, who runs the restaurant together with her husband Vitalij.
Of the Kanarskijs, Sonja is the one who practically manages the restaurant's daily operations. All the recipes are entirely her creation. Vitalij, on the other hand, describes his role more as a behind-the-scenes figure. His main job is working as a software architect.
"Many of these recipes were taught by my mother," says Sonja Kanarskij. "And already tested in marriage," adds Vitalij Kanarskij.
They name Chicken Kyiv as the most challenging dish on the menu. The seemingly simple dish consists of thinly pounded chicken breast wrapped around herb butter. The chicken is then breaded through a three-step process and fried to golden perfection. The result is a crispy crust that reveals melting herb butter when cut.
"That process had to be refined for a very long time to ensure that it turns out the same and perfect every time in the restaurant."
In addition to Sonja Kanarskij, Caspian employs two servers and a Ukrainian chef. "He has been a great help, especially with the preparation of Chicken Kyiv."
The cornerstone of successful recipes is, of course, quality ingredients. "For example, our steaks and ground meat are Finnish. That matters to many customers," says Vitalij Kanarskij.
Memories from Leningrad
Opening a new restaurant always involves financial risks. You need patience and faith in your business concept. "We always talked about opening a restaurant in Spain. Well, at least we don't have to consider that option right away now that we've committed to this."
Before the grand opening in mid-October, the former pizzeria premises were renovated from floor to ceiling. The tableware and decor were also chosen with care. "Little by little people have found their way here, but we need a lot more customers. We think the kitchen works well and now we're trying to invest even more in marketing. Of course, in the early stages this is a real struggle," Vitalij Kanarskij admits.
The Kanarskijs say they trust the restaurant's concept: there is currently a Georgian restaurant, Marani, in the Oulu area, but otherwise the Eastern European dining scene is limited. Zakuska, a Russian restaurant that had operated in Oulu for a long time, closed a few years ago.
Tiina Mikkola, an Oulu local stepping through the restaurant door, almost apologizes for not having visited sooner. "I have a history with this culture. It's really wonderful to get more dining options in Oulu."
Mikkola is a Russian language translator and interpreter. She once worked in the Soviet Union, including in Leningrad — now Saint Petersburg — as an interpreter for Finnish construction companies. "And before that as a tour guide for so-called vodka tourists. My Russian language studies at the University of Tampere were nothing compared to that school of life," Mikkola recalls from the era when Finns headed to the Soviet Union, especially to Leningrad, on leisure group trips.
Now on the menu, Mikkola's eye catches Chicken Kyiv. "I first encountered it back in Leningrad. But nobody warned me that something might burst out when you push a fork through the breading."
Mikkola has never dared to try making Chicken Kyiv herself. Instead, she always prepares various cold appetizers, zakuski, for gatherings. "In the food culture of the former Soviet region, these appetizers play a central role. You eat for hours, give toasts, and raise glasses. The main course often takes a back seat."
Suddenly, an aria sung by Sonja Kanarskij fills the restaurant. It brings back memories of Saint Petersburg from years past. "Back in the Soviet era, the menu might list a hundred dishes, but in reality the restaurant only had a few available," Mikkola recalls while listening to the singing.
At Caspian, every dish on the menu is available to order, but off the menu you can also request world-class opera. "For private events, at least for now," the Kanarskijs laugh.